"It'll take all of our body and soul" - geisha struggle to survive in the shadow of coronavirus

"It'll take all of our body and soul" - geisha struggle to survive in the shadow of coronavirus

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Ikuko (pictured below), the "big sister" of Tokyo's Akasaka geisha district, came to the capital to seek her fortune in 1964, the year Tokyo first hosted the Olympics. But the novel coronavirus pandemic has made her fear for her centuries-old profession as never before.

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Left: Ikuko combs her wig as she gets ready to work at a party being hosted by customers at a luxury restaurant where she will be entertaining with other geisha.
Right: Old photographs of Ikuko that were taken after she moved to Tokyo in 1964.

Though the number of geisha - famed for their witty conversation, beauty and skill at traditional arts - has been falling for years, Ikuko and her colleagues were without work for months due to Japan's state of emergency and now operate under awkward social distancing rules.

"There were more than 400 geisha in Akasaka when I came, so many I couldn't remember their names. But times changed," Ikuko, now 80, said. Only 20 remain, and there aren't enough engagements to take on new apprentices - especially now.

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Koiku and Mayu enter Asada, a luxury Japanese restaurant where their customers are hosting a party.

Coronavirus-induced austerity has slashed expense accounts, and many people remain wary of spending hours in the elegant but closed traditional rooms where geisha entertain.

Engagements are down 95 percent, and come with new rules: no pouring drinks for customers or touching them even to shake hands, and sitting 2 metres apart. Masks are hard to wear with their elaborate wigs, so they mostly don't.

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Ikuko gets ready at her home to work at a party.

"When you sit close, you can talk with feeling, your passion comes through," Ikuko said, wearing a black silk kimono patterned with irises. "When you're two metres apart, conversation breaks down."

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Kanda and Yurie Hatanaka, a wig stylist, wear protective face masks and face shields as they work on Hanasaki.

Geisha aren't the only Japanese artists in danger. Performers of "jiutamai," an ancient women's dance, as well as makeup artists, wig stylists and kimono dressers, confessed to worry the coronavirus could further imperil their niche professions.

"Every single one of my events has been cancelled," said Mitsunaga Kanda, who has spent decades doing elaborate makeup for geisha and dancers.

"We touch their skin and their face, all over, and while we don't talk we're very close - something we're very aware of now," added Kanda, donning a mask and face shield to work on dancer Tokijyo Hanasaki.

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Restaurant staff wear protective face masks as they stand on the street with Ikuko as they wait for another geisha to arrive outside Asada restaurant.

Though the ancient capital of Kyoto is best known for geisha, Tokyo has six geisha districts of its own. But discouraged by the rigour of geisha life with its hours of artistic practice, fewer now join.

Akasaka had 120 geisha 30 years ago. Now all of Tokyo has only some 230.

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Mayu, Maki and Koiku practice a dance routine during a class specifically for geisha only.

Lessons and kimono are expensive, with pay dependent on popularity. And some skills, such as the witty conversation that make older geisha like Ikuko especially popular, can only be gained through time.

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Maki, Mayu, Koiku and Ikuko wear protective face masks as they walk to a restaurant after attending a dance class.

"Our income has been down to zero," Ikuko said. "I have a bit of wherewithal, but it's been very hard for the younger ones. The geisha association has helped with rent."

All geisha, as freelancers, can also apply for 1 million yen in government subsidies, which she believes most did.

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Mayu and Ikuko get ready at Ikuko's home to work at a party.

"I was just full of anxiety," said fellow geisha Mayu, 47. "I went through my photos, sorted my kimonos..

"The thought of a second wave is terrifying."

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Koiku, Maki, Ikuko and Mayu perform a dance routine.

Still, every effort is being made.

"We arrange things in the largest room possible," said Shota Asada, owner of the luxurious restaurant where the geisha entertain. "Anything to keep this culture alive."

. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
. Tokyo, Japan. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Left: Koiku gets ready at Ikuko's home to work at a party.
Right: Kimonos that will be worn by Maki, Mayu and Koiku are hung up at Ikuko’s home.

Michiyo Yukawa, an ex-geisha who owns an Akasaka bar and hosts occasional geisha events, thinks geisha may need to adapt so that more ordinary people can appreciate their charm.

"They have a special beauty," she said. "They've gone through training other people haven't, they spend a lot of money on this - and it's made them special. Having this disappear would be sad."

. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon
Koiku, Maki and Ikuko get into a taxi as they make their way to work at a party.

Ikuko fears an extended pandemic could prompt some geisha to quit.

"Now is the worst of the worst," she said. "How are we going to get through? It'll take all of our body and soul."

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Slideshow

A kimono dresser helps Koiku put on her kimono as Koiku gets ready at Ikuko's home to work at a party.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

A kimono dresser helps Koiku put on her kimono as Koiku gets ready at Ikuko's home to work at a party.

Makeup belonging to Maki is laid out as she gets ready at Ikuko's home to work at a party.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Makeup belonging to Maki is laid out as she gets ready at Ikuko's home to work at a party.

Koiku paints the back of Mayu's neck as they get ready at Ikuko's home to work at a party.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Koiku paints the back of Mayu's neck as they get ready at Ikuko's home to work at a party.

Koiku gets into a taxi as she makes her way to work at a party.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Koiku gets into a taxi as she makes her way to work at a party.

Senior geisha help Koiku put on a protective face mask.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Senior geisha help Koiku put on a protective face mask.

Koiku wears a protective face mask.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Koiku wears a protective face mask.

Ikuko wears an apron printed with Kumamon, a mascot created by the government of the Kumamoto Prefecture where she was born.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Ikuko wears an apron printed with Kumamon, a mascot created by the government of the Kumamoto Prefecture where she was born.

Maki and Ikuko perform a dance routine.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Maki and Ikuko perform a dance routine.

Kimono dresser Shoichi Sanagashi dresses  jiutamai dancer Tokijyo Hanasaki before Hanasaki is recorded dancing for a film being made with support of the Tokyo Metropolitan government.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Kimono dresser Shoichi Sanagashi dresses jiutamai dancer Tokijyo Hanasaki before Hanasaki is recorded dancing for a film being made with support of the Tokyo Metropolitan government.

Jiutamai dancer Tokijyo Hanasaki poses behind a laptop playing a musical performance which was filmed in advance to accompany  Hanasaki's dance performance for a film.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Jiutamai dancer Tokijyo Hanasaki poses behind a laptop playing a musical performance which was filmed in advance to accompany Hanasaki's dance performance for a film.

Maki, Mayu, Ikuko and Koiku greet dance master of Japanese traditional dance Fujima Hideka after attending a dance class specifically for geisha only.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Maki, Mayu, Ikuko and Koiku greet dance master of Japanese traditional dance Fujima Hideka after attending a dance class specifically for geisha only.

Koiku folds a traditional umbrella made out of oli-paper, as she arrives at a restaurant where she will be working at a party.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Koiku folds a traditional umbrella made out of oli-paper, as she arrives at a restaurant where she will be working at a party.

Ikuko and Koiku wear casual clothes as they chat at a cafe.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Ikuko and Koiku wear casual clothes as they chat at a cafe.

Koiku and Maki clean Ikuko's living room before they have lunch together.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Koiku and Maki clean Ikuko's living room before they have lunch together.

Koiku, Mayu, Maki and Ikuko have lunch together.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Koiku, Mayu, Maki and Ikuko have lunch together.

Ikuko speaks on the phone.
. Tokyo, JAPAN. Reuters/Kim Kyung-Hoon

Ikuko speaks on the phone.