Mongolia's millennial monks

Mongolia's millennial monks

Advertisement

Buddhism is one of the world's oldest religions, but its fate in Mongolia now rests on very young shoulders.

The country's monasteries are increasingly run by millennial monks, the first generation to come of age after decades of religious repression under the Soviet system wiped out almost all Buddhist clergy.

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
Lobsang Tayang poses at the Amarbayasgalant Monastery.

Just four years into his own studies, 29-year-old Lobsang Tayang is already teaching two young monks, a position he would normally attain only after 20 years.

"I felt like I hadn't gained enough knowledge yet," he said. "I was thinking, 'Is it right for others to call me teacher when I myself am still learning?'"

He is stepping up because the repression, begun in the 1930s with the arrival of Communism, killed an estimated 17,000 monks, official figures show.

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
Buddhist monks enter a ger, a traditional Mongolian tent, for afternoon prayers.

At the time most Mongolians were devout adherents to a form of Buddhism similar to that practiced in Tibet.

After democracy came to Mongolia in 1990, monasteries and schools were re-established by the survivors, many already then in their 70s.

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
The sun rises over the Buddhist Amarbayasgalant Monastery.

Lobsang Tayang's monastery, Amarbayasgalant, is a sprawling complex deep in the endless grasslands, 35 km (22 miles) from the nearest road. It was home to around 800 monks before the Soviet era. After the purges began, half the monastery's monks fled, while most of those who remained were killed.

Now fewer than 40 are left, and the oldest, the head of the monastery, is just 35.

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
Buddhist monks arrive for an evening prayer recital session.

The young monks are struggling to maintain crumbling monastery buildings that date from the 18th century, and were declared a world heritage site by the cultural agency UNESCO.

Today just 28 of more than 40 original temples remain. Flocks of nesting pigeons stain the walls with faeces and leave the monks, whose religion forbids killing, in despair.

1 / 17

Slideshow

Temuulen gets dressed after waking up at 7am.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Temuulen gets dressed after waking up at 7am.

Temuulen and Batkhan Tuul get dressed.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Temuulen and Batkhan Tuul get dressed.

Temuulen ties his belt.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Temuulen ties his belt.

A young Buddhist monk reads a prayer book during a recital session.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

A young Buddhist monk reads a prayer book during a recital session.

Buddhist monks eat lunch at the refectory.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Buddhist monks eat lunch at the refectory.

Temuulen attends a lesson.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Temuulen attends a lesson.

Temuulen recites a religious text from memory to his teacher Lobsang Tayang.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Temuulen recites a religious text from memory to his teacher Lobsang Tayang.

Young Buddhist monks perform a prayer ritual in a courtyard.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Young Buddhist monks perform a prayer ritual in a courtyard.

Young Buddhist monks practise the recital of prayers.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Young Buddhist monks practise the recital of prayers.

Temuulen and Batkhan Tuul walk in a courtyard.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Temuulen and Batkhan Tuul walk in a courtyard.

Temuulen and Batkhan Tuul look at birds nesting under the roof of the main temple.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Temuulen and Batkhan Tuul look at birds nesting under the roof of the main temple.

Buddhist monks leave afternoon prayers.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Buddhist monks leave afternoon prayers.

Buddhist monks play with a dog after two hours of evening prayers.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Buddhist monks play with a dog after two hours of evening prayers.

Senoir Buddhist monk Said Lobsang Rabten oversees an evening prayer recital session.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Senoir Buddhist monk Said Lobsang Rabten oversees an evening prayer recital session.

A Buddhist monk walks in a courtyard of the Amarbayasgalant Monastery.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

A Buddhist monk walks in a courtyard of the Amarbayasgalant Monastery.

Young Buddhist monks play basketball at dusk.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Young Buddhist monks play basketball at dusk.

Stars twinkle over the Buddhist Amarbayasgalant Monastery during a moonlit night.
. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter

Stars twinkle over the Buddhist Amarbayasgalant Monastery during a moonlit night.

Lobsang Tayang wakes his students, 10-year-old Batkhan Tuul and 11-year-old Temuulen, at around seven to test their memory of the scriptures, chanting which fills the rest of the morning.

In the afternoon, the younger monks can study topics such as mathematics and literature - if a teacher can be found.

Such a choice of career is unusual in the modern world, and finding children willing to sign up can be tricky. The choice is often made as much by parents as their children, and is rarely a straightforward task.

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
Temuulen and Batkhan Tuul are reflected in a glass cabinet as they study religious texts.

"He didn't like the idea because he was afraid of the paintings and altars of the deity," said Temuulen's mother, Badamkhand Dambii, recounting her son's reaction the first time she broached the topic. "He said they were frightening."

It took him a while to come round, she added.

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
A young Buddhist monk yawns during a prayer session.

Getting children to come is only half the battle, however. Keeping them there is the real challenge.

"Nowadays it's very rare to find monks who can remain faithful to their vows," said Lobsang Tayang.

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
Temuulen watches a fellow monk blow a seashell as a call for prayers.

Many monks who grow up at the monastery yearn for the outside world, which they are only allowed to visit twice a year for two weeks. The monastery has 3G internet access, but mobile telephones are restricted to those older than 25.

"It's easy to chop down a forest, right?" said Lobsang Rabten, the monastery's second-in-command. "But it takes a long time for new trees to grow back."

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
Senior Buddhist monk Lobsang Tayang steps out out onto the terrace.

He hopes such issues will eventually be overcome, to return the monastery to its former glory.

For now Temuulen is committed to a future at Amarbayasgalant and hopes to help rejuvenate it.

"When I grow up, if the monastery becomes bigger and more renowned, then hopefully lots of children will come."

. Baruunburen, Mongolia. Reuters/Thomas Peter
Temuulen studies religious texts.