California wine country counts the cost of wildfire damage
Wildfires across the western United States, home to most of the country’s vineyards, have hit farmers and wine makers already reeling from the Trump administration’s trade wars and demand disruptions caused by the coronavirus pandemic.
Smoke, harmful to wine grapes, has blanketed much of the West and fires have charred more than 4 million acres (1.6 million hectares) in California so far in 2020, more than twice the previous record for any year. Some wine areas have been much closer to the blazes than others, however.
Smoke, fire and vineyards
Average organic carbon in the atmosphere from Aug. 20 to Sept. 20, locations of wineries, and burned areas from fires this year.
CANADA
Pearl
Hill fire
Seattle
Washington
Willamette Valley
wine region
Portland
Wineries
Beachie
Creek fire
Smoke levels
Aug. 20 - Sept. 20
Oregon
Fires this year
UNITED STATES
Areas of prolonged
thick smoke
Nevada
LNU Lightning
Complex
Wine country
Napa Valley and
Sonoma wineries
San Francisco
SCU Lightning
Complex
Creek fire
Paso Robles
California
Santa Barbara
Bobcat fire
Los Angeles
MEXICO
CANADA
Pearl
Hill fire
Seattle
Washington
Willamette Valley
wine region
Portland
Wineries
Beachie
Creek fire
Smoke levels
Aug. 20 - Sept. 20
Idaho
Oregon
Fires this year
UNITED STATES
Areas of prolonged
thick smoke
Nevada
LNU Lightning
Complex
Wine country
Napa Valley and
Sonoma wineries
San Francisco
SCU Lightning
Complex
Creek fire
Paso Robles
California
Santa Barbara
Bobcat fire
Los Angeles
MEXICO
CANADA
Pearl
Hill fire
Seattle
Washington
Willamette Valley
wine region
Portland
Wineries
Beachie
Creek fire
Smoke levels
Aug. 20 - Sept. 20
Idaho
Oregon
Fires this year
Areas of prolonged
thick smoke
UNITED STATES
Nevada
LNU Lightning
Complex
Wine country
Napa Valley and
Sonoma wineries
San Francisco
SCU Lightning
Complex
Creek fire
Paso Robles
California
Santa Barbara
Bobcat fire
Los Angeles
MEXICO
CANADA
Pearl
Hill fire
Seattle
Washington
Willamette Valley
wine region
Portland
Wineries
Beachie
Creek fire
Smoke
Oregon
Fires
UNITED
STATES
Areas of
prolonged
thick smoke
Nevada
LNU Lightning
Complex
Wine country
Napa Valley and
Sonoma
San Francisco
Creek fire
Paso Robles
California
Santa Barbara
Los Angeles
CANADA
Pearl
Hill fire
Seattle
Washington
Willamette Valley
wine region
Portland
Wineries
Beachie
Creek fire
Smoke levels
Aug. 20 - Sept. 20
Idaho
Oregon
Fires this year
Areas of prolonged
thick smoke
UNITED STATES
Nevada
LNU Lightning
Complex
Wine country
Napa Valley and
Sonoma wineries
San Francisco
SCU Lightning
Complex
Creek fire
Paso Robles
California
Santa Barbara
Bobcat fire
Los Angeles
MEXICO
In California’s wine country, some wineries have completely burned down and others have had entire crops ruined by smoke and ash coating the delicate grapes yet to be harvested.
The active Glass Fire has destroyed dozens of buildings in the world-renowned Napa Valley, including the mansion-like Chateau Boswell winery and a farmhouse containing storage, bottling and fermentation facilities at the Castello di Amorosa winery, built to resemble a 13th-century Tuscan castle.
Dutch Henry Winery and Sherwin Family Winery told Reuters their wineries had burned to the ground, and local media have reported damage or destruction to many more.
The Newton Vineyard winery also went up in flames, according to a Reuters photographer who visited the site and who observed rivulets of red wine mixed with ash flowing down its main access road. Some wineries escaped with their structures still standing. One of these was the Davis Estates winery in Calistoga. On Sept. 27, strong winds swept the Glass fire onto the property and right through a line of fire retardant recently dropped by aircraft.
The family and remaining employees were evacuated but a team of firefighters helped to repel the flames and save the winery. Mike Davis, its proprietor, described how high winds turned the blaze into an “uncontrollable fire storm”.
Davis visited the estate with his wife, Sandy, the following day to see if anything was left.
“The last pictures I’d seen didn’t give us hope the property had survived,” he said. “After maneuvering past roadblocks, downed power poles, we saw a silhouette of the winery still standing. Both my wife and I were overwhelmed with emotion and cried like two-year-olds.”
Areas burned by
LNU Lightning Complex
fire in August
Napa Valley
wine region
Napa
vineyards
Pope Valley
Lake
Berryessa
Calistoga
Chiles Valley
Glass fire
Many vineyards
directly in path of fire
Napa Valley floor
Atlas Peak
Napa
Sonoma
Carneros area
No vineyard
data available
5 km
Areas burned by
LNU Lightning Complex
fire in August
Napa Valley
wine region
Napa
vineyards
Pope Valley
Dutch Henry
Winery and vineyard
burned down
Lake
Berryessa
Calistoga
Volker Eisele Family Estate
Entire crop ruined
Castello di Amorosa
Castello di Amorosa
Rustridge Winery
Entire crop ruined
Sherwin Family
Vineyard
Burned down
Chiles Valley
Glass fire
Elan Vineyards
Entire crop ruined
Many vineyards
directly in path of fire
Napa Valley floor
Atlas Peak
Napa
Sonoma
Carneros area
No vineyard
data available
5 km
Areas burned by
LNU Lightning Complex
fire in August
Napa Valley
wine region
Napa
vineyards
Pope Valley
Dutch Henry
Winery and vineyard
burned down
Lake
Berryessa
Calistoga
Volker Eisele Family Estate
Entire crop ruined
Castello di Amorosa
Rustridge Winery
Entire crop ruined
Castello di Amorosa
Sherwin Family Vineyard
Winery burned down
Chiles Valley
Glass fire
Elan Vineyards
Entire crop ruined
Many vineyards
directly in path of fire
Napa Valley floor
Atlas Peak
Napa
Sonoma
Carneros
No vineyard
data available
2 km
Areas burned by
LNU Lightning Complex
fire in August
Napa Valley
wine region
Napa
vineyards
Pope Valley
Lake
Berryessa
Calistoga
Chiles Valley
Glass fire
Many vineyards
in path of fire
Atlas Peak
Napa Valley floor
Sonoma
Napa
No vineyard
data available
Carneros
5 km
Areas burned by
LNU Lightning Complex
fire in August
Napa Valley
wine region
Napa
vineyards
Pope Valley
Dutch Henry
Winery and vineyard
burned down
Lake
Berryessa
Calistoga
Volker Eisele Family Estate
Entire crop ruined
Castello di Amorosa
Castello di Amorosa
Rustridge Winery
Entire crop ruined
Sherwin Family Vineyard
Winery burned down
Chiles Valley
Glass fire
Currently active
Elan Vineyards
Entire crop ruined
Many vineyards
directly in path of fire
Napa Valley floor
Atlas Peak
Napa
Sonoma
Carneros area
No vineyard
data available
Fairfield
2 km
Other parts of Napa Valley are still recovering from one of California’s largest fires on record in August that damaged crops and blanketed the valley with thick smoke.
“My crop insurance provider is dealing with 600 claims for smoke taint,” said Susan Meyer, owner of RustRidge Winery in Napa Valley.
“My crop is a total loss, both from the fire itself and the smoke that lingered for days. Many plants were burned by fire but others died from the heat exposure,” she said.
Other winemakers went ahead with the harvest and will assess the wine as it develops. “We ferment the 2020 wines as normal, put them to barrel, taste them non-stop along the way, and then add the results of the lab analysis to our body of knowledge as we work to assess the wines,” said Beth Milliken, President and CEO of Spottswoode Winery in Napa Valley.
In other areas it may be too early to fully assess the impact from this year’s fires, as many winemakers await the results of smoke testing from backlogged wine laboratories.
Smoke taint occurs when smoke is absorbed into the plant and concentrates in the fruit, altering a grape’s chemistry, and ultimately its taste, leaving some wines with “ashtray aromas”.
The leaves can absorb smoke compounds but have less of an impact compared to grapes.
SMOKE
SMOKE
The compounds in the smoke can be absorbed by the skin of the grape, releasing some sugars resulting in a smoky flavor in the wine.
The leaves can absorb smoke compounds but have less of an impact compared to grapes.
SMOKE
The compounds in the smoke can be absorbed by the skin of the grape, releasing some sugars resulting in a smoky flavor in the wine.
SMOKE
SMOKE
The leaves can absorb smoke compounds but have less of an impact compared to grapes.
SMOKE
The compounds in the smoke can be absorbed by the skin of the grape, releasing some sugars resulting in a smoky flavor in the wine.
SMOKE
The leaves can absorb smoke compounds but have less of an impact compared to grapes.
SMOKE
The compounds in the smoke can be absorbed by the skin of the grape, releasing some sugars resulting in a smoky flavor in the wine.
In the Atlas Peak appellation of Napa Valley, Elan Vineyards is also dealing with the aftermath of the LNU Complex fire.
Patrick Elliot-Smith, wine maker and owner of the family-run vineyard, told Reuters how he and his son stayed to defend the estate rather than evacuate in August, fighting fires over three days with water pumps and a box scraper on a tractor to cut fire breaks around the vineyard.
“It looks like a lunar landscape here”
Patrick Elliot-Smith, wine maker and owner of Elan Vineyards
The decision was made not to harvest any grapes this year or sell fruit to other winemakers due to smoke taint. “We cannot afford a bad vintage,” he said.
The delays in lab results can be problematic for wine makers facing an imminent decision whether to harvest or not, according to Elliot-Smith.
Labs overwhelmed
Gordon Burns, co-founder and technical director of ETS Laboratories, told Reuters it was far too early to speculate about the extent of impact on grapes in areas where smoke was persistent.
“Every location is different, and smoke exposure may be transitory and as little as none at all. Any fire impacts will certainly not be to the entire vintage in any of the affected winegrowing regions,” he added.
ETS is one of the country’s leading wine labs and is headquartered in Napa Valley. The lab is currently dealing with a backlog of smoke impact testing following this year’s fires. Last week, a notice on their website warned of a wait until November for new tests submitted.
The science of smoke taint
Grapevines are more sensitive to smoke uptake at different stages of the growing season. Research shows key periods of grapevine sensitivity, according to Western Australia’s Department of Agriculture and Food.
LOWER RISK
When the grapevine shows short shoots or flowering.
YOUNG
SHOOTS
FLOWERS
MID RISK
If the berries are pea sized or entering the “veraison” phase, where grapes first begin to ripen.
SMALL
GRAPES
VERAISON
HIGHER RISK
The higher risk of smoke taint begins seven days after veraison though to harvesting.
VINEGRAPES
LOWER RISK
When the grapevine shows short shoots or flowering.
FLOWERS
YOUNG
SHOOTS
MID RISK
If the berries are pea sized or entering the “veraison” phase, where grapes first begin to ripen.
SMALL
GRAPES
VERAISON
HIGHER RISK
The higher risk of smoke taint begins seven days after veraison though to harvesting.
VINEGRAPES
HIGHER RISK
LOWER RISK
MID RISK
When the grapevine shows short shoots or flowering.
If the berries are pea sized or entering the “veraison” phase, where grapes first begin to ripen.
The higher risk of smoke taint begins seven days after veraison though to harvesting.
YOUNG
SHOOTS
FLOWERS
SMALL
GRAPES
VERAISON
VINEGRAPES
HIGHER RISK
LOWER RISK
MID RISK
When the grapevine shows short shoots or flowering.
If the berries are pea sized or entering the “veraison” phase, where grapes first begin to ripen.
The higher risk of smoke taint begins seven days after veraison though to harvesting.
YOUNG SHOOTS
FLOWERS
SMALL GRAPES
VERAISON
VINEGRAPES
HIGHER RISK
LOWER RISK
MID RISK
When the grapevine shows short shoots or flowering.
If the berries are pea sized or entering the “veraison” phase, where grapes first begin to ripen.
The higher risk of smoke taint begins seven days after veraison though to harvesting.
YOUNG SHOOTS
FLOWERS
SMALL GRAPES
VERAISON
VINEGRAPES
Smoke exposure can also impact the functioning of the vine, result in the delay of fruit ripening or alter the sugar content of the fruit. The smoky flavour may appear during the fermentation process or even as late as after bottling.
Grapes that have already been picked from the vine before exposure are safe from smoke taint. Harvest timing plays a key role in whether a vintage is exposed and therefore ruined by smoke. These timings depend on both the local climate and the grape and can vary widely.
Harvest time
The graphic below shows harvest timings for the wine growing districts across the state of California by grape type, according to the Department of Viticulture and Enology at the University of California, Davis.
Smoke levels
California avg. atmospheric organic carbon
Heavy smoke
Aug.
Sept.
Oct.
Nov.
Grape harvesting
Viognier
Muscat Blanc
Sav. Blanc
Volume
Thickness represents amount of grape crushed in California, 2019
Chardonnay
642,000 tons
Pinot Noir
Syrah
Barbera
Still on the vines
Grapes may have been exposed to smoke.
French Colombard
Symphony
Merlot
Zinfandel
Cabernet Sauvignon
581,000 tons
Malbec
Muscat of Alexandria
Rubired
Smoke levels
California avg. atmospheric organic carbon
Heavy smoke
Aug.
Sept.
Oct.
Nov.
Grape harvest periods
Viognier
Muscat Blanc
Sav. Blanc
Volume
Thickness represents amount of grape crushed in California in 2019
Chardonnay
642,000 tons
White grape
Pinot Noir
Red grape
Chenin Blanc
Syrah
Barbera
Burger
French Colombard
Symphony
Still on the vines
Mid to late-season grapes could have been subjected to smoke.
Merlot
Grenache
White Riesling
Zinfandel
Cabernet Sauvignon
581,000 tons
Malbec
Tannat
Cabernet Franc
Ruby Cabernet
Muscat of Alexandria
Rubired
Smoke levels
California avg. atmospheric organic carbon
Heavy smoke
Aug.
Sept.
Oct.
Nov.
Grape harvest periods
Viognier
Muscat Blanc
Sav. Blanc
Volume
Thickness represents amount of grape crushed in California in 2019
Chardonnay
642,000 tons
White grape
Pinot Noir
Red grape
Chenin Blanc
Syrah
Barbera
Burger
French Colombard
Still on the vines
Most of these mid to late-season grapes likely to be unharvested. This means they could have been subjected to smoke.
Symphony
Merlot
Grenache
White Riesling
Zinfandel
Cabernet Sauvignon
581,000 tons
Malbec
Tannat
Cabernet Franc
Ruby Cabernet
Muscat of Alexandria
Rubired
Smoke levels
California state-wide average of atmospheric organic carbon
Heavy smoke
July
August
September
October
November
Grape harvest periods
across growing districts
Viognier
Muscat Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc
Volume
Thickness represents amount of grape crushed in California in 2019
Chardonnay
642,000 tons
White grape
Pinot Noir
Red grape
Chenin Blanc
California’s most popular white grape. Early harvest in certain areas means some grapes may have already been picked.
Syrah
Barbera
Burger
French Colombard
Symphony
Still on the vines
Most of these mid to late-season grapes likely to be unharvested. This means they could have been subjected to smoke.
Merlot
Grenache
White Riesling
Zinfandel
581,000 tons crushed in 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon
Malbec
Ruby Cabernet
Muscat of Alexandria
Rubired
Heavy smoke
Smoke levels
California state-wide average of atmospheric organic carbon
July
August
September
October
November
November
Grape harvest periods
across growing districts
Viognier
Muscat Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc
Volume
Thickness represents amount of grape crushed in California in 2019
Chardonnay
642,000 tons
California’s most popular white grape. Early harvest in certain areas means some grapes may have already been picked.
White grape
Pinot Noir
Red grape
Chenin Blanc
Syrah
Barbera
Burger
French Colombard
Symphony
Still on the vines
Most of these mid to late-season grapes likely to be unharvested. This means they could have been subjected to smoke.
Merlot
Grenache
White Riesling
Zinfandel
581,000 tons crushed in 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon
Malbec
Ruby Cabernet
Muscat of Alexandria
Rubired
“You have a far greater potential for tainted wine the closer you are to the fire,” said Eric Jensen, owner of Booker and My Favorite Neighbor wineries in California’s Paso Robles region.
“We’re testing constantly and we believe in Paso we’ll be blessed because of the distance that the smoke traveled to get to us. But in Napa and Sonoma, the proximity is causing issues.”
California is not the only state affected. Further North in Oregon’s picturesque Willamette Valley, Jason Hanson of Hanson Vineyards expects his crews may only harvest five tons of grapes, down from the 25 to 30 tons his fields yielded last year, due to smoke taint from nearby fires.
“With the dense smoke that we’ve had at the ground level for so long now, almost everything has to be affected or damaged,” Hanson said.
“I have a yearly fight with the birds. This year I’ll just let them win.” Oregon, Washington state and California together produce about 90% of all U.S. wine.
The true impact on the $70 billion industry will not be known for months as the wildfire season is not yet over, and crop damage can vary greatly.
Sources
Global Modeling and Assimilation Office (GMAO), NASA; National Interagency Fire Center; University of California; U.S. Department of Agriculture; Department of Agriculture and Food, Western Australia; U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB); Napa County GIS catalog.